Nothobranchius furzeri
Background
Nothobranchius
furzeri is an annual killifish found in
Mozambique and Zimbabwe. It occurs in small freshwater pools south of the Save
River and north of the Incomati River, and inhabits basins of the Limpopo,
Changane, Chefu, Mazimechopes and Vaneteze rivers. It is commonly found with N.
rachovii and N. orthonotus. North of the Save River, N. furzeri is replaced by
the recently described N. kadleci.
N. furzeri is a fairly robust species, growing
to 3”. The body color is generally light turquois with a red reticulation,
although solid red strains exist. The anal fin is red, and the caudal has a
black margin with a red or yellow sub-marginal band depending on locality.
It is often stated to be the
shortest-lived vertebrate species with a life span of 12 weeks in nature.
However a 2005 paper by Michael LePage found the coral reef pygmy goby Eviota sigillata lives only 8 weeks. In the aquarium, N. furzeri can
live up to 6-8 months, but shows signs of decline around 5 months.
Aquarium Care
Like most
species of Nothobranchius, N.furzeri will
tolerate a range of conditions with a preference for neutral to moderately
alkaline water
with a temperature range of 75-78 F.
Salt may be added to the water at a rate of 1 tbsp per 5 gallons up to 1 tsp
per gallon. I generally find this unnecessary as long as the tank is kept
clean. I change 50% of their water every 10 days and haven’t had problems with
velvet.
Keeping N. furzeri does pose some challenges compared to other species of Nothobranchius. I’ve found to be most
successful with them I need to keep them in a larger than typical aquarium. I
keep most of my nothos in groups in a 20 gal long. N. furzeri is kept in a 33 gal. Both sexes can be aggressive. If
they are raised together in a group, they seem to do well. But if they are
separated for a short time, they must be kept separate and supervised during
spawning. They also eat quite a bit more than other species. I feed them live
black worms, frozen bloodworms, and chopped red worms and cocktail shrimp.
Ideally they should be fed multiple times per day. Feeding has been the biggest
challenge with keeping this fish for me.
Breeding and Raising Fry
N.
furzeri is a prolific breeder and getting
them to spawn doesn’t present any difficulties as long as they are well fed and have clean
water. Peat and Coir both work well as a spawning media, I use a fairly large
amount in a margarine tub. They can be messy spawners and using a dish with a
hole cut in the cover may help.
Incubation typically takes 5-7 months. I’ve hatched large
numbers of fry as early as 2 months so it pays to check the eggs monthly. I
typically will hatch fry in a large margarine tub, which I will lower into a ½
filled 5 or 10 gallon tank depending on how many fry have hatched. Fry can take
newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii on hatching. The fry tank is filled daily
until full after the first week. After that I do 80% water changes weekly. They
grow very quickly, showing signs of sexual maturity at only 4 weeks. For me,
females initially grow more quickly than males, which catch up and surpass the
females in size.
Nothobranchius
furzeri has become one of my favorite
killies. It’s somewhat challenging, but not so difficult it can’t be maintained
long-term. With a little extra care and attention, they can be easily kept and
are very rewarding.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteThanks for providing detailed information on this species. I have never raised killifish; my only fish experience is with neon tetras when I was 6 years old. I am interested in N. furzeri because they have been suggested as natural Parkinson's Disease model (no genetic engineering needed). There are many fairly safe natural substances (e.g., alpha ketoglutarate) and interventions (e.g., red light exposure) that potentially could slow the progression of PD that have not been trialed in animal models or in N furzeri specifically. I was hoping to make a hobby of testing these - as humanely as possible - on N furzeri. I would appreciate any advice you may have
on how to obtain and rear them.